"It found its way into the guidebooks in the mid-80s," says Wright. "That was a real sea change for the house. It was on the map as a cool, inexpensive place to stay in one of the biggest cities in Latin America. It then became a struggle to maintain the original mission while keeping this wonderful, thriving guest house going at the same time."

Quakers have been working on various kinds of peace-oriented missions in the house for 50 years, but in the last 10 years the guests have been the bulk of their activity. The house´s 50-year anniversary is an opportunity to get back to its roots, according to Moix, the interim executive director of the Casa de los Amigos.

"We are seeking a process of jubilee renewal for the casa - returning to the original mission. The guest house is a tool, a means for. improving international understanding and working for peace."

The Casa will be holding a three-day celebration for reaching the half-century mark from Friday, Oct. 27, to Sunday, Oct. 29. It will include meals, piñata-making and traditional dance workshops. The highlight of the weekend is an invite-only discussion led by Chiapas archbishop emeritus Don Samuel Ruiz García. He was instrumental in negotiating the peace between the Zapatista rebels and the government after rebels briefly seized five municipalities in Chiapas in January of 1996.

Moix discussed other "back to basics" exercises including the development of their information center, helping other non-governmental organizations. She also mentioned their support for non-violence and migration issues - both matters that the Casa was fully involved with before the mid-80s guidebook phenomenon took hold.

"There was a flood of refugees coming from four Central American counties, fleeing very violent situations. Quakers were very involved with the Sanctuary movement, which was also known as the aboveground railroad," said Wright, who is directing this year´s 50th anniversary jubilee. He was referring to the Quakers active participation in the Underground Railroad in the United States in the 19th-century that offered southern slaves safe passage to free states in the north of the country.

During the 1980s, Nicaragua, El Salvador and Guatemala all faced civil wars: in Nicaragua the left-wing Sandinista government fought right-wing Contra rebels, while in both Guatemala and El Salvador right-wing governments fought left-wing rebels. The Quaker´s Sanctuary Movement responded to this by offering shelter to refugees from these wars, channeling them to Mexico, the United States and Canada. Members have risked fines and worse, protecting some of the refugees who traveled illegally to arrive to safety.

"The Casa became an important stop on the journey north, housing refugees especially Salvadorans along with the guests. This was a very vibrant time here; hundreds of Central Americans passed through the house, either waiting for paperwork or safe passage," said Wright.

Many Central Americans chose to stay in Mexico City, helped by the city government. As links were established with city authorities, the guest house became a staging post for refugees from Africa, Eastern Europe and elsewhere. The program ended in 1994 due to a significant decline in refugees arriving in Mexico.

The Casa was one of the first civil organizations to help in the 1985 earthquake, which hit hard in the nearby Guerrero neighborhood.

"The house was not affected. It was very well built. So the morning after, people from the house were out in the community with food. They cooked here and went out and started responding, helping the community with rebuilding efforts," Moix said.

The mobilization following the earthquake built up some of the organizations with which the Casa still works. "It was an important time for civil society in Mexico to develop. People realized that the government would not respond, and people got together and organized, and discovered they could respond with their own means," she added.

The house still maintains contact with those they helped, even receiving the occasional grateful plaque to commemorate that time.

Heberto Sein, one of the founders of the Casa and for a long time the driving force behind it, led the efforts for both the earthquake and the refugees. When he died in the 1990s, much of the Casa´s history went with him, say the current managers, but not all.

The Casa has records dating back to the mid-50s, showing the work camps that were the staple of the first 30 years of the house. Photos show volunteers who have come from places as distinct as Panama and Puna, India, drilling wells and building schools. They are accompanied by letters from people who worked in the Casa´s projects, which were often staged in small villages on the outskirts of Mexico City, and want to find out what happened with their work. One favorite letter quips, "Whatever happened to that tiny town of Ecatepec?"

"While the physical product of the work camps might have been a new school, a community health program, the underlying goal was to have an experience of international understanding among a diverse group of people. to contribute to international peace and understanding," says Moix. It is a spirit they hope soon to revive.

Alex Manda is a freelance journalist living in Mexico City. atmanda1@yahoo.com